Building a Beginning Billing Boats Kit, Dana Fishing Boat – Part 7: Painting and Preparation

HSPMS member Clare Hess continues his build of the Billing Boats fishing boat Dana kit.

The Ship Modeler

Preparing the Blocks

At some point, we’re going to need to deal with one of the small details, namely the blocks. Billing Boats commonly includes pre-molded plastic block in many of their kits. I think they may use small wooden blocks for some things, but the blocks on this 1:60-scale kit come in plastic.

Now, you may not like plastic blocks and may want to substitute some 3rd party fittings instead.  The blocks in the kit are 3/16″ or 5mm single-sheave blocks. Amati makes 5mm single blocks in Walnut and you can find them at Ages of Sail here, at $2 for a pack of 20. Unfortunately, shipping far outweighs the cost of the blocks themselves. Not a problem if you’re already planning to order other things. But, personally, even though I have many choices of blocks on-hand, I just decided to try out the ones in the kit.

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HSPMS Meeting Saturday

It’s that time again! The Hyde Street Pier Model Shipwrights are scheduled to meet on Saturday, February 16th at 9:30am aboard the ferry boat Eureka.

The pier is looking happier now, with the Balclutha back home. But, of course. there’s always the possibility that government will shut down again. That happened once this year and that affected our last meeting. So, check the news before heading over to the pier on Saturday morning. If there’s no shutdown, the meeting is on.

 

Hyde Street Pier Model Shipwrights Meeting

9:30am

Model Shop aboard the Ferry Boat Eureka

 

Guests are always welcome! Members, remember to pay dues, $20, to Paul Reck this month.

 

Building a Beginning Billing Boats Kit, Dana Fishing Boat – Part 5: Hull Details

The Danish fishing ketch build continues with the $69 Billing Boats beginner’s kit Dana.

The Ship Modeler

The Prop

After painting the hull and adding the prop, I went ahead and decided that I didn’t like the position of the prop. Now, you may not care enough about it to want to change anything, but it was bugging me. Now, I may be wrong, but I’m glad I made the changes.

The prop points downward. On a real boat, this would drive the bow downwards, which may be the whole point. The boat may be more stable, operating with the bow not riding up above the water. But, the images of the completed model don’t seem to have the prop pointing down quite so much.

The main issue here is really that the shape of the rudder assembly prevents you from mounting the prop in a “nicer” fashion – the top of the prop hits the wooden frame. Really, all you need to do here is shave…

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